Thursday 14 May 2015

1960-1970

Mary QuantMary quant was a Welsh fashion designer in the 60's-70's. She became a new fashion icon after creating the fashion 'mini skirt' and hot pants. These both became so popular and was a new statement fashion trend that they are still in fashion to this day!





Jacqueline KennedyJacqueline Kennedy was J.F Kennedy's wife and was a style icon to the world with her pillbox hats, oversized buttons, low heeled shoes, pearled necklaces and pretty but plain dresses, She had the well groomed and sophisticated appeal about her.



Fashions Througout 60-70'sThere are so many different types of fashions that want through this era, Hemlines were getting shorter until they were name as 'micro mini's' there was a space theme and futuristic theme running through it using shiny and metallic materials, white boots and goggles, geometric print on dresses, big flares on trousers and sleeves, high plat formed pvu knee length boots, bell bottom trousers, hippy theme where everything was to be cool and peace, the mods who wore parkers and the rockers that wore leather jackets, jeans and rode on their motorbikes.
There was so many fashion revolution in the seventies I think it was the most diverse period of time for fashion. There was so many different types or garments which you could express your self in and be unique.









MusicMusic was a very big thing between the 1960-1970 as there was major pop bands such as the beetles, rolling stones, beach boys and jimmy Hendrix, there were so many different types of music that everyone could appeal to something. Music was so meaningful then that in the 1960 in new York at the 'Woodstock' festival,  over half a million people joined together to portray a peace message that a generation can be united and heard.

1950

After the war
After the war, men went back to normal work and women were to go back to there normal roles of being a housewife, but this time the women were to be perfectly groomed with their make up and hair with the correct accessories such as earing and gloves.



Christian DiorChristian Dior was a major impact on the fashion of the 50's, with the royals and everyone else embracing his new look he was able to have his big break and help to re-establish Paris back to the fashion capital of the world. Dior was introducing the floral day dress, straight skirt, coolie hats and the high waistline but people were unsure on the high tucked in waist line as many loved it and other were a bit to unsure of it.



The sack dressAfter the 'new look' achieved world domination another new look was around the corner and was to make head lines to. After the tight high tucked in waist line from Dior, people were a bit struck by it and preferred the sack dress which was a over sized dress and wide at the waist to look like a 'sack' which was created by  Cristóbal Balenciaga



The stiletto The stiletto was created by Charles Jordan who created a slim line heel instead of the chunky heel. The stiletto became very famous and fashionable that every women wanted a pair plus they were easy to come by in different colours.


Audrey HepburnAudrey Hepburn was known as a British film and fashion icon in the 50's. She was known for her film's and her beauty and women adored her and aspired to be a woman like her with a striving career and a fashion icon to the world, Audrey Hepburn was an inspiration to women.



Post-warPost-war meant that there was more time for holidays which meant good business for the resort wear. it was already big in America and France and the annual fashion show for resort wear was in St.Tropez. With resort wear starting to grow a new piece of clothing was (introduced in 1947) made which is known as the Bikini for women to be able to show off their bodies and get a real tan.

1930-1940

Wall street crash
This is when knowing who was poor and who was rich became devastatingly noticeable. The wall street crash or known as Black Tuesday in October 1929 was the most devastating stock market crash in the history of Unites States. The crash was the beginning of the 10 year depression which affected the western industrialised countries. Fashion was dramatically changed for people who did not have any money as the would have to stick to a 'classic' style in order for their clothes to last longer in fashion and would only be able to repair the clothes they already had.



The fashionThe fashion had changed in the 1930's and hats became a big thing, everyone had one and everyone would be wearing them including men and women. Fashion from Hollywood captured everyone's eye especially many Parisian designers who took inspiration from the Hollywood films. The new fashion was to have the pretty and elegant approach to it with ladies pinning back their hair to show off their forehead with small hats and matching gloves were the range at that time. Also a new silhouette had arrived which included a smaller waist with long and narrow skirts, wide shoulders, hemlines were uneven, pleats where below the knee, rounded busts and waistline curves.



Marlene Dietrich Marlene Dietrich was a glamorous famous actress and singer who was known in the 1930-140's, she was known for her distinctive, unusual personal style, her good looks and her sex appeal and became a eye catcher for Hollywood and people would take inspiration from her.


NylonBy the 1940's nylon had been introduced and was a massive hit , nylon stockings were a woman's best friend and was needed urgently. Nylon looked good, felt good and was affordable. with the start of world war 11 arriving, nylon became difficult to come by and with women loving the nylon stocking to much, women started to draw on where the line of the stocking would have been on the back of their leg with a pen to give the appeal they had the stockings on.


The 'new look'The new look was created by Christian Dior in 1947, it was a new silhouette was that women's dress code changed dramatically from the trim waist and hips ,broad chest and shoulder pads with shoulder-length curled or rolled. This new look also introduced peplum, curved necklines, horseshow collars, princess line and the bust shaped by gathers.



1920

New changeAfter the gloomy world war, people's attitudes started to change towards fashion and their lifestyles and looked at life in a new light. The 1920's became an era of modernisation and freedom, with girls being able to wear make-up, cut their hair, shave their body hair, show of their legs and being able to smoke in public was a completely new change to their lifestyles.
With the inspiration of Pola Negri and Thede Bara, women were able to express their selves with eye make up. The 'Vamped look' was the first trend of dark eye make up which included dark eyes, lipstick and either hair covering the forehead or with a scarf or hat.


The 'Flapper girl'The flapper girl was introduced in the 1920's and was known to be a lady who was beautiful and was often a dancer. They were to look life they were leading the good life with a beautiful body and hair with a glamorous Fringed dress which was dropped to the waist.




Coco ChanelChanel first started out as a milliner, she then opened her first fashion shop in Deauville in 1913. after so much success she was then able to open up her first couture house in Biarritz. Channel was a major importance to fashion in the 1920's with her inspiration of men's clothing and then turning them into chic and sophisticated garments for women. Chanel achieved the 'looser' look with using masculine characteristics  from men's wear and making then into clothes with a boyish charm but she also added beautiful embellishment to the garments to create an elegance to the clothes for women to desire over. Jersey was the main source for sport and underwear for men, after channel had got her hands on jersey she then transformed  jersey in to a fabric for outer clothing for women and became the height of fashion, women adored channels designs that nearly every manufacture were quick to copy her ideas.
Photo: Lesnar Chen @Flickr

The Bias cutThe bias cut was introduced in the 1920's and was a whole new type of fashion, Bias cut was influenced by the art movement cubism. This is where objects were spit into sections, re-assembled to create an abstract version of the original image, this meant that clothing could be made with drapes and have more of a flow and free feeling to the garments. In the 1920's the dresses became straight and flowing which vanished the appearance of the hourglass figure which helps pursue the 'boyish' look.


The FashionMass Production was becoming available so fashion was now available to all. The class boundaries were blurred, so your class didn't determine what you wore. With the tea dress disappearing and embellishment becoming popular, waist lines starting to drop, long sleeves becoming the norm, main accessories would have been a scarf or a headband, the corset near enough vanishing and with women being able to show a bit of their bodies of you can see how quickly the fashion had changed.


RayonOne of the first man made fibres and was known as 'Art Silk', 'gloss' or 'fibre silk' until the 1920's when it  was announced as 'rayon'. Rayon was comfortable, economical to make with and was easy to dye. Rayon was used by manufactures to create cheap dresses, linings, slips, knickers and stockings. Manufactures were able to eliminate the artificial sheen which made rayon suitable for knitted fabric and more expensive day and evening wear.

Sunday 10 May 2015

Fashion 1910-19120

              The new silhouette The new silhouette was founded in 1911, it was a new shape to the tea dress which could then be worn for an evening dress to make it feel more comfortable and a softer shape. the difference was it was created with a Empire Line (high waisted with straight vertical lines). This silhouette was produced by Liberty, Poiret and Diaglev. The new silhouette would regularly decorated with drapes, layering and embellished.

 'Responsible for releasing women'
 

Paul Poiret  was a leading French designer for exciting couturier for the first 2 decades of the 20th century. He was partially responsible for the new silhouette in 1911 and created a free feeling dress removing itself away from the curves of a women to create a long slim empire line. People have said that Poiret "he was personally responsible for releasing women from the tyranny of the corsets". Poiret also created the 'hobble skirt' which was a slim straight silhouette.

    VogueVogue was founded in 1892 but it wasn't until 1909 when vogue became popular by adding colour, advertisements and articles on society and fashion. Vogue launched British and French editions to the magazine. vogue transformed into an exciting and glamorous fashion magazine. Vogue became the magazine to make or break a designer. Vogue reached Britain in 1916 when world war 1 was happening, this was a good time for vogue as women could indulge in the escapism of vogues fashion while their men were on the front line.

              Men's Fashion
Men's fashion was limited but their wardrobes were to have a considerable amount within it. Men were to wear trousers, shirts, gloves, smart shoes, jackets and hats.  Men had to be dresses accordingly to suit where they were going at all times.   


                   World War 1

World war 1 broke out on 28th July 1914 and this was when the fashion changed over the four years of war is arguably one of the most significant reflectors of the changes happening in women's lives. With rationing being introduced February 1918, clothes became increasingly expensive shortages began to bite, because of this people had to recreate their clothes in order for them to last longer and
to keep up with new styles coming through or in other terms 'Make do and Mend'.

For the first time ever women were allowed to wear trousers at work but this was only for the miners, whereas the other majority wore  A-line skirts and looser fitting jackets while at work and these were copied by civilians as a popular and patriotic style.


Due to the war, the fashion had made a massive impact and introduced the 'Military' look through garments but then throughout later fashion the 'Military' look which would rock fashion shows and become a new fashion trend. Also because of women dressing similar to a man within the war with similar work outfit it encouraged the androgynous dressing more popular which again would become a massive trend within later fashion years.

                                                         
         Practicality
With styles changing, women needed styles which were to suit practicality and be less restricting to their bodies. Skirts and dresses started to expand into flares, fabric became more softer and comfortable and hem lines were starting to get shorter. People no longer saw the interest in the evening dress and was slowly died out along with the tea gown and day wear became the most important outfit within a woman's wardrobe.




       The start of the 1920'sBy the time World War I ended, women were used to their freedom and independence, and their clothing maintained its wartime masculinity with loose, belts worn around the hips, shapeless fits and flattened busts, fur trimmed edge, corsets became a thing of the past. Fashion designers decided to use different fabric, patterns and textured to create the new 'modern' look.
 

Fashion from the 1900-1910

                                                                                'S-Curve'
From 1900-1909 the fashionable lady at this time was to be a confident woman with a low full chest and curvy hips. With the new 'Edwardian corset' also known as the 'S-Curve' or 'health corset'  was to help of the appearance of the 'hourglass figure' and enhance the curves of a woman which was in fashion at the time. The 'health corset' helped with eliminating the pressure from the abdominal. Dresses were to floor length with sleeves increasing in size but slimming out towards the elbow, however towards 1909 this dresses appear to rise and approach to ankle height.




LibertyLiberty is a large department store in London which was founded in 1875 and was named after the owner (Aurthur Lasenby Liberty)
, it was opened to have the appeal of an American feel to the store. It became one of the fashionable places to shop and was well known for it great clothing and furniture. It was known for the respected woman to shop at with all there for her to shop for, to this day in age it is still a well known place to shop at with all different types people shopping there.





'Haute Couture'
Early 1900's was the rise of the 'Haute Couture' which means “high sewing” in French and implies the highest levels of quality and detail in clothing manufacturing.  The  garments are custom- designed and hand-sewn for individual people with a rather high price to pay.  To qualify as true couture, a garment must be manufactured by one of 11 registered Paris couture houses, this became a high rise in Paris.Women of the upper classes used these deigns and was used for the rest of the Western fashion world. These designs were shown at horse races, and Vogue took on the job of telling the public about what was going on, who was going where, and what was being worn.